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  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Xavier Durand 2010 Corton Rognet

    Domaine Xavier Durand
    2010 Corton
    Rognet

    $65

    Grown on the northernmost part of the Corton Hill, this Grand Cru Pinot Noir comes from old vines bought by Durand’s father in 1985. It represents the best terroir and best wine of the Durand domaine. Requires cellaring.

    • Deeply extracted, deeply colored, powerfully and exotically scented. A floral perfume overlaid with citrus rind, juniper, lemon balm, and other botanicals (think fine artisan gin), dark red fruit, leather, meat, and other animal scents, including formic acid. An immensely sexy glass of wine just to smell, but the palate overflows with astonishingly concentrated fruit, with citrus, animal musk, and resiny pine flavors. How Xavier Durand manages to pack such an array of scents and flavors into this wine is a mystery to me—but a beautiful mystery. Truly memorable. Hard to resist now, but a long keeper with an excellent balance of fruit, acid, and tannin. Perhaps not for everyone, but if you’re at all adventurous, don’t miss this one.

      Food pairing: So uniquely flavored, that it seems a shame to draw any attention away from this wine, but likely to be delicious with duck; venison with juniper berries; or other game dishes with a pungent sauce.

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Xavier Durand 2011 Corton Rognet

    Domaine Xavier Durand
    2011 Corton
    Rognet

    $65

    Grown on the northernmost part of the Corton Hill, this Grand Cru Pinot Noir comes from old vines bought by Durand’s father in 1985. It represents the best terroir and best wine of the Durand domaine. Requires cellaring.

    • Not quite the wild animal that the 2010 seems to be, but with a distinctive nose of earth, wet terracotta, celery, chalk, flint, leather, and red fruit that is nearly as complex and interesting. More restrained than the 2010 also on the palate with soft but prominent tannins masking earthy flavors and hints of highly extracted, rich, fruit with overtones of leather and musk, the leathery component being especially prominent on a protracted finish marked also by lingering, fine-grained, tooth-coating tannins. Will need time to develop, but a veiled beauty with great promise.

      Food pairing: Duck; venison; rabbit; other game or fowl

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Xavier Durand 2012 Corton Rognet

    Domaine Xavier Durand
    2012 Corton
    Rognet

    $65

    Grown on the northernmost part of the Corton Hill, this Grand Cru Pinot Noir comes from old vines bought by Durand’s father in 1985. It represents the best terroir and best wine of the Durand domaine. Requires cellaring.

    • Not quite the blockbuster the 2010 was, but nevertheless complex and highly distinctive.

      Countless scents on the nose: herbs, mineral, toast, juniper, leather, wood, pine resin, dried meat, cola, nutmeg, barnyard, and grapefruit rind, to name a few. Wonderfully complex. Rich, sweet fruit on the palate, offset by delicate but solid tannins and brisk acidity. Nicely balanced and approachable now, but will need time to show its full potential.

      The kind of wine to buy by the case and try at intervals over years—if you can resist the temptation to drink it all immediately!

      Food pairing: Duck; roasted chicken dishes; rabbit, venison, or other game; lamb; mushroom or lentil dishes; or savor this wine on its own

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Philippe Girard 2011 Corton Perrieres

    Domaine Philippe Girard
    2011 Corton
    Perrieres

    $67

    Grown on limestone and marl high in potash, this Grand Cru Pinot Noir has an ample bouquet with notes of fruit and a powerful and structured body. Extensive aging recommended.

    • Scents of wet clay, talc, red licorice, plums, earth, and red berries feature on a youthful nose with floral aromas in the background. Medium body. Bright raspberry and other red fruit flavors prominent on the palate. Crisp, with zesty acidity balancing intense fruit concentration. Clean and precise. Elegant structure. Fruity on an extended finish.

      Food pairing: grilled meats

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Philippe Girard 2012 Corton Perrieres

    Domaine Philippe Girard
    2012 Corton
    Perrieres

    $69

    Grown on limestone and marl high in potash, this Grand Cru Pinot Noir has an ample bouquet with notes of fruit and a powerful and structured body. Extensive aging recommended.

    • Beautiful red fruit on the nose, with earthy notes trying to mingle. Very nice balance of bright fruit, spice and forest floor.

      Food pairing: Beef stew

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut 2010 Corton Bressandes

    Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut
    2010 Corton
    Bressandes

    $72

    Good for cellaring. This Grand Cru Pinot Noir, grown on the east side of Corton Hill, is intense in both color and flavor, with a stout yet harmonious body. Although best aged for 8-10 years, we find it more approachable when young than the Hautes Mourottes. For a ready-to-drink version, we recommend the 2002 vintage.

    • Beautiful, elegant, and expressive. Gorgeous cherry and exotic spice scents on the nose (anise). Bright fruit shows on the mid-palate and there’s a delicious dollop of spicy cherry on the finish. Open this bottle for a California Pinot lover—it showcases rich fruit and good balance.

      Food pairing: Duck

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut 2010 Corton Hautes Mourottes

    Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut
    2010 Corton
    Hautes Mourottes

    $72

    This Grand Cru Pinot Noir is grown on the limestone of Corton Hill’s upper eastern slopes. Upon aging, it becomes rich and vibrant, complex and ever-changing on the palate — but it is less approachable when young. The 2010 vintage can’t be beat, but it requires cellaring. For a vintage that is ready to drink now, try our 1999 or 2003.

    • A somewhat closed nose exhibits mostly floral aromas. Medium body on the palate. Elegant, with well-integrated tannins and juicy red fruit flavors. Also evident are violets, chalky mineral suggestions, and spice flavors. Superbly balanced. Likely to be seductive when mature, but will need until around 2020 to be easily approachable.

      Food pairing: venison and other game meats; strong cheeses

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut 2002 Corton Bressandes

    Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut
    2002 Corton
    Bressandes

    $75

    A rare opportunity to taste a Grand Cru Pinot Noir after years of aging — without the wait! Bressandes comes from the east side of Corton Hill, and is intense in both color and flavor, with a stout yet harmonious body. Drink now, or wait a few more years! Note: older vintages can be fragile. See our recommendations for how to open and serve older wines.

    • A complex nose with nutmeg, sweet spice, cedar, oak, black truffles, earth, and a little barnyard. Also a very faint iodine aroma, floral notes, woodsy scents and nutty suggestions. Substantial body. Tart, with bright, concentrated, red fruit flavors as well as dark, brambly fruit and licorice. Lively acidity nicely complements a chewy, viscous mouthfeel. Nuts, wet earth, spice, and herbal notes. Sinewy tannins support an ample yet elegant structure. Good balance. Lengthy finish. Still developing. Likely to drink well through around 2019. Recommended for people who like their wines full-flavored and robust.

      Food pairing: Hearty tomato-based pasta dishes or game meats.

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut 1999 Corton Hautes Mourottes

    Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut
    1999 Corton
    Hautes Mourottes

    $79

    A rare opportunity to taste a Grand Cru Pinot Noir after years of aging — without the wait! Hautes Mourottes comes from the limestone of Corton Hill’s upper eastern slopes. Aging makes it rich and vibrant, complex and ever-changing on the palate. This vintage and 2003 are ready to drink now. Note: older vintages can be fragile. See our recommendations for how to open and serve older wines.

    • A reddish bronze tint reveals this wine’s age, but it still has plenty of life. A deep, rich nose suggests ripe black cherries, clove, and cassis. After the wine has had time to breathe, it begins to reveal even more spice and fruit. Drinking beautifully now but likely to remain attractive through at least 2017.

      Food pairing: Beef stew

  • French Red Burgundy Wine, Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut 2003 Corton Hautes Mourottes

    Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut
    2003 Corton
    Hautes Mourottes

    $79

    This Grand Cru Pinot Noir, born from the limestone slopes of Corton Hill, will grow rich and vibrant with age, complex and ever-changing on the palate — but it’s less approachable when young. This vintage (2003) and the 1999 are both ready to drink now. Note: older vintages can be fragile. See our recommendations for how to open and serve older wines.

    • A complex nose with some barnyard funk (in a good way!), forest floor aromas, and wet earth with a mineral character. Truffles and savory notes along with baked plum. Medium- to full-bodied, the palate features licorice, spice, floral elements, and prominent high-toned cherry and strawberry flavors. Good fruit supported by medium acidity—despite a hot vintage. Mouth-coating, with tingly, grippy tannins. Elegant structure. Quietly classy. I love the precision here! Drinking well now, but likely to remain attractive through around 2019.

      Food pairing: venison and other game meats; strong cheeses

  • French White Burgundy Wine, Domaine Pierre Marey et Fils 2011 Corton-Charlemagne

    Domaine Pierre Marey et Fils
    2011 Corton-Charlemagne
     

    $86

    Our top white Burgundy, and our only Chardonnay Grand Cru, this wine is fit for a king! Give it a few years to open up, and it will taste lush, rich, and nectary.

    • Earth and truffles on the nose. Medium body, but quietly powerful. The flavors seem to expand on the palate. A medicinal note and restrained, tightly wrapped fruit create focus. Elegant but with solidity of structure and a creamy, mouth-coating texture. The fruit is nicely balanced by acidity. Moderately long, with an interesting chalky note on the finish. Still young. Try again in 2016–2017. Likely to age gracefully for another five years beyond that.

      Food pairing: Truffle-based pasta dishes; baked or roasted chicken with truffles; vegetable risotto

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