Reticent on the nose, but with dusky floral scents and suggestions of hay, tatami mats, citrus rind, and spice. Complex, evolving nose, the spicy elements being particularly in flux, pointing first to cloves, then to ginger, then to something not quite definable. Bright on the attack, then marked by an intensely fruity, brandy-like mid-palate and finally a protracted finish with the fruit and acid components seeming to dance on the tongue. Despite that, still seems to be holding something back. Approachable now, but will need time to show at its best.
Food pairing: Lobster; crab; fish grilled or meunière; richly sauced scallops